Friday, April 16, 2010

City Escapes Nature Photography Newsletter - April 2010

Text Box:  
Multnomah Fall and Pines

CITY ESCAPES

Nature Photography, LLC

 

 

Newsletter

April, 2010 

 

April is full of celebrations of nature and its various gifts

 

Earth Day

One of the most well-known of these celebrations is, of course, Earth Day.  Observed annually on April 22, Earth Day is a celebration of the natural aspects of the earth, as well as a call to renew and strengthen earth-friendly practices, both at the governmental and the individual level.  How much do you know about the origin of this now widely-observed day?

 

·         The first Earth Day was in 1970. 

·         It was founded by Senator Gaylord Nelson of Wisconsin.  After accomplishing significant gains in the environmental arena as governor of Wisconsin, he took his ideas to the national stage in 1962 with his election to the U.S. Senate.  Throughout the 1960s, though, he struggled to get his environmental concerns taken seriously in Washington, where pollution was considered to be synonymous with economic growth.  Senator Nelson rejected the idea that economic prosperity and environmental protection were anathema; indeed, he felt that the fights against poverty and pollution were one and the same.  Gaining little traction in Washington, he decided to take his ideas directly to the people.  Building on the successes of the university-led sit-ins and teach-ins that had previously focused on race relations and the Vietnam war, Senator Nelson proposed a nationwide teach-in day to focus on environmental issues.  His strategy worked: Earth Day became an immediate success, and the Washington establishment suddenly had to focus on environmental protections as never before.

·         Early Earth Day observances led to, among other things, the establishment of the Environmental Protection Act (1970), the Clean Water Act (1972), and the Endangered Species Act (1973), as well as put enforcement teeth into the Clean Air Act (1970), an Act which previously had contained only measuring and monitoring provisions.

·         April 22 was chosen for a myriad of reasons, not least of which was its position in the academic calendar.  It did not interfere with mid-term exams or spring/Easter breaks; in 1970, it fell on a Wednesday, and therefore would not interfere with weekend activities; most students would have been on campus at that time; and in most of the country, the weather would have warmed up enough to allow for outdoor activities, a not insignificant consideration for an event focusing on the environment.  That April 22 is close to the Spring Equinox certainly did not hurt, either, though there is some debate as to whether that fact actually played a role in the determination of the date for the teach-in.

·         An estimated 20 million people across the country participated in the first Earth Day.

·         In 1995, the 25th anniversary of Earth Day, Gaylord Nelson was awarded The Presidential Medal of Freedom, the highest honor available to civilians, for his work on environmental issues.

·         By 2000, Earth Day had a global reach of hundreds of millions of people, with celebrations in 184 countries.

·         This year, 2010, marks the 40th anniversary of this now often week-long celebration.

 

Arbor Day

A less-widely known, but older April celebration is Arbor Day, a celebration of trees.  The day of observance of Arbor Day is somewhat difficult to state categorically, as National Arbor Day and state Arbor Days often fall on different dates.  National Arbor Day is the last Friday in April, this year falling on April 30.  State Arbor Days vary tremendously, as many states set their celebration dates to coincide with the best tree planting weather in their region. 

 

·         While most states observe Arbor Day in March or April, the dates can vary widely: Louisiana and Florida, for example, both celebrate the day on the third Friday in January, Hawaii’s observance is the first Friday in November, and South Carolina’s is the first Friday in December!

·         The first Arbor Day was April 10, 1872.

·         Arbor Day was founded by Julius Sterling Morton, a Michigan native who had relocated to the treeless plains of Nebraska.  He recognized the importance of trees for everyday life as building materials, fuel, and shade, but also their importance to agriculture as wind breaks to reduce soil erosion.  As a member of Nebraska’s State Board of Agriculture, he proposed setting aside a day to plant trees, and had little trouble convincing his fellow Nebraskans to support the effort.  The response was tremendous: schools and counties had competitions to see who could plant the most trees, awards were given, even a parade was held.

·         An estimated one million trees were planted on that first Arbor Day.

·         Arbor Day was made an official state holiday in Nebraska in 1885.  April 22 was chosen as the day of observance to coincide with Morton’s birthday.

·         National Arbor Day was first observed in 1970.

 

To find out when your state celebrates Arbor Day, or to discover your state tree, go to http://www.arborday.org/arborday/arbordaydates.cfm.  And go plant a tree!

 

 

April’s Fun Facts

 

According to the Colorado Tree Coalition, a single mature tree can absorb up to 48 pounds of carbon dioxide per year – as well as release enough oxygen back into the atmosphere to support two people.  A tree that shades a house can reduce fossil fuel consumption by an amount equal to the carbon that fifteen forest trees could sequester!

 

 

If you have any questions, or suggestions for future newsletters, please email us at: relationships@cityescapesphotography.com

 

Become a fan on Facebook at

http://www.facebook.com/pages/City-Escapes-Nature-Photography/119004291172

 

CITY ESCAPES Nature Photography, LLC

www.cityescapesphotography.com

509-396-5154

 

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Now Accepting All Major Credit Cards

 

We are pleased to announce that we are now able to accept all major credit cards for payments.  We have recently updated our web store to reflect our changing of credit card processing companies from a traditional third party provider to Google Checkout. As part of this move, we have been able to expand our list of accepted cards to include American Express and Discover, as well as the previously accepted MasterCard and Visa. Additionally, customers can use debit cards to pay for their purchases if they prefer not to use a credit card.

 

We are pleased to be able to provide our customers this additional flexibility in their payment options.

 

Monday, March 29, 2010

Grouping Multiple Pieces of Art on a Wall

Whether you are grouping photographs or paintings, creating an array of art on a single wall can have a big visual impact.  Wall groupings can be used to create an atmosphere, to accent a particular feature of a room, or to simply keep a room from looking empty.  Whatever your goal for a particular space, keeping a few guidelines in mind will help you achieve your goal with minimal frustration.

 

1)    Small images can be given more visual impact by grouping them together.  This gives the images more of a visual presence, drawing the eye to them more than a single small image alone generally does.  Especially if the images are of the same shape and size, they can be hung in a tight group (2” or less apart), creating the visual sensation that each is a portion of a whole.

 

2)    When mixing large and small pictures, use the larger pieces as your anchors; put them in the middle and/or bottom to prevent your arrangement from seeming top-heavy and unstable.  A common exception to this rule is when you are including a panoramic.  These are often put at the top of an arrangement, acting as a visual “lid.”

 

3)    Combine vertical and horizontal images together in one grouping.  This adds visual punch, and helps to keep the arrangement from looking stale.

 

4)    Pictures do not have to line up neatly!  They should be evenly spaced, but play with varying their heights and horizontal alignments.  Arcing pieces, starting with the largest at the bottom (imagine the stereotypical depiction of a shooting star, including its tail), can do a magnificent job of leading the eye and creating a sensation of movement in a room.  The overall symmetry should be balanced, but that does not mean that the two sides of an arrangement need to be mirror images.  Multiple small pictures can provide the same visual weight as a single large picture. 

 

5)    Images in a group should have one or more unifying elements.  This can be things such as subject matter (family, African wildlife, French bistros, etc), all color or all black and white, matching frames or frame colors, or even just matching mats.  There should be at least one common thread running through all of the finished pieces to create a sense of cohesion.  Note that images do not need to be framed identically in order to create a successful grouping.  My first rule of thumb in framing any image is to ensure that the frame and mats complement the image.  If any particular framing job looks great in the room but does not suit the image, either the frame should be changed, or a new image should be found that works well with the frame.  Remember, the image is the art; the frame, though very important, is secondary (unless the object being framed is a mirror; in this case, the frame can, but does not have to, serve as the main portion of art.).  That having been said, if the images are similar, framing them identically can accentuate the unifying elements of them.  For example, a series of three shots of your child diving off of a diving board tell a story, and framing them identically can accentuate that narration while complementing each picture in its own right. 

 

6)    Tell stories with your groupings.  Creating visual narrations draws the viewer in and keeps them interested.

 

7)    If you are aiming to create an intimate, welcoming atmosphere, you should consider placing furniture -- especially chairs, sofas, and other items that invite spending time in the direct vicinity of the artwork -- either directly under or near the art.  This invites the viewer to come in close and allows the art to become a part of their surroundings, even if only as a background piece.  If, however, you aim to have the art be the uncontested focal point of the room, ensure that no furniture is near it, and that the view of the piece is not obstructed.  This draws the eye and holds it, but also creates a little distance between the viewer and the art.  The piece will command the viewers’ attention, but will not necessarily allow them to get cozy enough with it to allow it to fade into the background.

 

8)    Be cautious about mixing photographs and other artwork, such as paintings or charcoals.  Though it is possible for them to coincide peacefully, most of the time they will compete with each other for the viewer’s attention.

 

9)    Lastly, remember that like all decorating guidelines, these are simply guidelines.  Play.  Experiment.  You may find that breaking one or all of these “rules” will give you exactly the look you desire.  Just remember to use paper templates taped to your walls first, as discussed last month, so you don’t end up with dozens of unnecessary holes in your walls.

 

 

Jodi

City Escapes Nature Photography

http://www.cityescapesphotography.com

 

Saturday, March 20, 2010

City Escapes Photography Newsletter - Mar 2010

Text Box:  
Yellow Fang’s Yawn - Lions

CITY ESCAPES

Nature Photography, LLC

 

 

Newsletter

March, 2010

 

Grouping Multiple Pieces of Art on a Wall

 

Whether you are grouping photographs or paintings, creating an array of art on a single wall can have a big visual impact.  Wall groupings can be used to create an atmosphere, to accent a particular feature of a room, or to simply keep a room from looking empty.  Whatever your goal for a particular space, keeping a few guidelines in mind will help you achieve your goal with minimal frustration.

 

1)    Small images can be given more visual impact by grouping them together.  This gives the images more of a visual presence, drawing the eye to them more than a single small image alone generally does.  Especially if the images are of the same shape and size, they can be hung in a tight group (2” or less apart), creating the visual sensation that each is a portion of a whole.

 

2)    When mixing large and small pictures, use the larger pieces as your anchors; put them in the middle and/or bottom to prevent your arrangement from seeming top-heavy and unstable.  A common exception to this rule is when you are including a panoramic.  These are often put at the top of an arrangement, acting as a visual “lid.”

 

3)    Combine vertical and horizontal images together in one grouping.  This adds visual punch, and helps to keep the arrangement from looking stale.

 

4)    Pictures do not have to line up neatly!  They should be evenly spaced, but play with varying their heights and horizontal alignments.  Arcing pieces, starting with the largest at the bottom (imagine the stereotypical depiction of a shooting star, including its tail), can do a magnificent job of leading the eye and creating a sensation of movement in a room.  The overall symmetry should be balanced, but that does not mean that the two sides of an arrangement need to be mirror images.  Multiple small pictures can provide the same visual weight as a single large picture. 

 

5)    Images in a group should have one or more unifying elements.  This can be things such as subject matter (family, African wildlife, French bistros, etc), all color or all black and white, matching frames or frame colors, or even just matching mats.  There should be at least one common thread running through all of the finished pieces to create a sense of cohesion.  Note that images do not need to be framed identically in order to create a successful grouping.  My first rule of thumb in framing any image is to ensure that the frame and mats complement the image.  If any particular framing job looks great in the room but does not suit the image, either the frame should be changed, or a new image should be found that works well with the frame.  Remember, the image is the art; the frame, though very important, is secondary (unless the object being framed is a mirror; in this case, the frame can, but does not have to, serve as the main portion of art.).  That having been said, if the images are similar, framing them identically can accentuate the unifying elements of them.  For example, a series of three shots of your child diving off of a diving board tell a story, and framing them identically can accentuate that narration while complementing each picture in its own right. 

 

6)    Tell stories with your groupings.  Creating visual narrations draws the viewer in and keeps them interested.

 

7)    If you are aiming to create an intimate, welcoming atmosphere, you should consider placing furniture -- especially chairs, sofas, and other items that invite spending time in the direct vicinity of the artwork -- either directly under or near the art.  This invites the viewer to come in close and allows the art to become a part of their surroundings, even if only as a background piece.  If, however, you aim to have the art be the uncontested focal point of the room, ensure that no furniture is near it, and that the view of the piece is not obstructed.  This draws the eye and holds it, but also creates a little distance between the viewer and the art.  The piece will command the viewers’ attention, but will not necessarily allow them to get cozy enough with it to allow it to fade into the background.

 

8)    Be cautious about mixing photographs and other artwork, such as paintings or charcoals.  Though it is possible for them to coincide peacefully, most of the time they will compete with each other for the viewer’s attention.

 

9)    Lastly, remember that like all decorating guidelines, these are simply guidelines.  Play.  Experiment.  You may find that breaking one or all of these “rules” will give you exactly the look you desire.  Just remember to use paper templates taped to your walls first, as discussed last month, so you don’t end up with dozens of unnecessary holes in your walls.

 

 

March’s Fun Facts

 

In like a lion...

 

Lions and other big cats can purr – sort of.  Their hyoid bone has elastic portions on either side, allowing the hyoid to move in a different manner than small cats.  This elastic hyoid is what allows the big cats to roar -- and to purr, as long as they are exhaling.  The big cats cannot purr while inhaling.  So, depending on your particular definition of purring (which is surprisingly contested), the big cats can indeed purr.  Or not.

 

The structure of the hyoid is one of the distinguishing characteristics that determine whether a cat is classified as a “big cat” or a “small cat”.  Size actually has little to do with the classification.  Even such large cats as the mountain lion are “small cats,” while the slightly smaller leopard is a “big cat.”  In small cats, the entire hyoid structure is hard, allowing them to purr continuously (not just on the exhale), but also preventing them from being able to roar.

 

Another distinguishing characteristic is the manner in which the iris constricts.  Small cats’ irises constrict to vertical slits, creating the “cat’s eye” look so familiar to us.  The irises of big cats, however, constrict into circles, just like human irises.

 

 

 

 

If you have any questions, or suggestions for future newsletters, please email us at: relationships@cityescapesphotography.com

 

Become a fan on Facebook at

http://www.facebook.com/pages/City-Escapes-Nature-Photography/119004291172

 

CITY ESCAPES Nature Photography, LLC

www.cityescapesphotography.com

509-396-5154

 

Saturday, February 20, 2010

City Escapes Photography Newsletter - Feb 2010

Text Box:  
Golden Angel's Trumpets

CITY ESCAPES

Nature Photography, LLC

 

 

Newsletter

February, 2010

 

 

 

Choosing the Proper-Sized Photograph for a Given Wall

 

You have found THE photograph that you want, and you know just where you want to hang it.  The only decision left to make is how large to print it.  This can be a surprisingly dismaying question.  So, to help you figure it out, here are a few things to consider.

 

Keep in mind that larger prints not only need more wall space, but also a greater viewing distance.  For example, hanging a large picture in a hallway may not give the viewer adequate room to step back and take in the entire image, though it may be fine for examining the details of the work.  However, hanging the image at the end of a long hallway just might provide enough space.  Conversely, small pictures hung in large spaces often appear to get lost.

 

Also, larger prints tend to be focal points, drawing the viewer’s attention to themselves and things around them.  Is where you want to hang the image the focal point of that space, or will the print be competing with something else?  This is one of the reasons you will often see larger prints hung over mantels; the print and the fireplace work together to provide a distinctive focal point to the room.

 

As a general rule, prints should be no more than 2/3 – 3/4 the width of the furniture below them, and the bottom edge of the frame should sit at least 6 – 8 inches above the furniture.  Prints should generally be hung at eye level for the average person.  Larger prints on higher walls might need to be hung higher to maintain a sense of balance.  

 

Perhaps the single best thing you can do to help decide how big to make your print is to cut out a paper template in your preferred size and actually attach it to your wall (painter’s tape works well because of its easy-release adhesive).  Be sure to include the dimensions of the entire package, including mats and frame, as these can increase substantially the overall dimensions of the piece.  Leave the template in place for a few days to get a feel for how the size works on a day-to-day basis.  Make adjustments as necessary.  And remember, when it comes to decorating, there are no hard and fast rules, only suggestions.  What matters most is what looks and feels right to you.

For more suggestions on things to consider when choosing a picture size, see our blog entry “Choosing the Proper-Sized Photograph for a Given Wall” at http://cityescapesphotography.blogspot.com/2010/02/choosing-proper-sized-photograph-for.html

 

Happy decorating!

 

 

February’s Fun Facts

In honor of the renowned meteorologist Punxsutawny Phil and Groundhog Day, a few interesting notes on groundhogs:

·         Groundhogs and woodchucks are the same animal.  They are the largest of fourteen species of marmot.

·         They don’t chuck wood, though they do gnaw on tree trunks (and the occasional wooden structure) to keep their teeth, which never stop growing, ground down.

·         The average groundhog moves approximately 700 pounds of dirt when constructing its burrow, which can consist of as many as 45 feet of tunneling, several chambers, and anywhere from two to five openings.  All of this for a single animal: for the most part, groundhogs are solitary animals.

·         They are meticulously clean.  They line the floors of their burrows with a “carpet” of leaves, and usually wipe their feet before entering.

·         In groundhog country, but haven’t seen a groundhog?  Look up; these burrowing animals are also known to climb trees. 

 

 

 

If you have any questions, or suggestions for future newsletters, please email us at: relationships@cityescapesphotography.com

 

Become a fan on Facebook at

http://www.facebook.com/pages/City-Escapes-Nature-Photography/119004291172

 

CITY ESCAPES Nature Photography, LLC

www.cityescapesphotography.com

509-396-5154

 

Choosing the Proper-Sized Photograph for a Given Wall

 

You have found THE photograph that you want, and you know just where you want to hang it.  The only decision left to make is how large to print it.  This can be a surprisingly frustrating question to answer.  So, as you are pondering it, here are a few things to consider.

 

First of all, note how much space you have overall in the area where you want to hang the print.  While it is obvious that a larger picture will take up more wall space, it also requires a greater viewing distance.  For example, hanging a large picture in a hallway may not give the viewer adequate room to step back and take in the entire image, though it may be fine for examining the details of the work.  However, hanging the image at the end of a long hallway just might provide enough space. 

 

Also, larger prints tend to be focal points, drawing the viewer’s attention to themselves and things around them.  Is where you want to hang the image the focal point of that space, or will the print be competing with something else?  This is one of the reasons you will often see larger prints hung over mantels; the print and the fireplace work together to provide a distinctive focal point to the room.  Remember also that smaller pictures grouped together perform the same function, and should be considered a single unit for decorating purposes.  (More on multiple smaller prints grouped together will be in next month’s design blog.)

 

Large prints can crowd small spaces, while conversely, a too small print can be lost in a large space.  Also consider the orientation of the photograph to understand how it will affect the look of the wall.  Vertical images emphasize height in a room, while horizontal images emphasize width.  This may seem an obvious concept, but the actual visualization of the effect can sometimes be a bit more challenging. 

 

Prints should not crowd furniture.  As a general rule, they should be no more than 2/3 – 3/4 the width of the furniture below them, and the bottom edge of the frame should sit at least 6 – 8 inches above the furniture.  Prints should generally be hung at eye level for the average person.  However, larger prints on higher walls might need to be hung higher to maintain a sense of balance.  

 

Consider the lighting in the area you wish to hang the image.  Can you light the image properly at a given size?  If not, are you willing to add lighting?  This could be something as simple as a frame light or a free-standing lamp, or as elaborate as installing track lighting.  Just as lighting is critical in the proper creation of a stunning photograph, it is also essential in its proper display.

 

While many people will consider the ramifications upon art size of having small children in the home (Can they reach it?  Will you come home to find your beautiful wedding portrait covered in small chocolate hand prints, or worse, in pieces on the ground, with an injured child nearby?), an often overlooked consideration is whether or not you have pets, especially medium to large dogs with appropriately long tails.  Though most pet owners who fall into this category quickly become aware of the “clean-sweeping” potential of these tails, and modify the items stored on top of coffee and side tables accordingly, art hung on walls is sometimes overlooked as a potential victim of the excited swooshes of a wagging tail.  The larger the piece, the more wall it covers, and the lower the bottom of the frame will be to the floor, making it more susceptible to getting knocked off the wall or to getting pieces of fur caught in the frame. 

 

With all of these things in mind, perhaps the single best thing you can do to help decide how big to make your print is to cut out a paper template in your preferred size and actually attach it to your wall (painter’s tape works well because of its easy-release adhesive).  Be sure to include the dimensions of the entire package, including mats and frame, as these can substantially increase the overall dimensions of the piece.  Leave the template in place for a few days to get a feel for how the size works on a day-to-day basis.  Make adjustments as necessary.  And remember, when it comes to decorating, there are no hard and fast rules, only suggestions.  What matters most is what looks and feels right to you.

 

Happy decorating!

 

Jodi Gaylord

City Escapes Nature Photography

www.cityescapesphotography.com

 

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Redesigned Website now live

 

In our ongoing effort to improve our web presence, we are pleased to announce the release of a significantly redesigned website, www.CityEscapesPhotography.com, which we expect to be more user-friendly.  Of course, the on-line art gallery is still the dominant feature. However, we have developed a layout that will allow us to provide significant new content over time without having to significantly redesign the site.  This new format also allows us to bring together our complete web presence into a series of easily navigable pages.

 

In particular, we have updated and expanded the FAQ, which makes it easier to find answers to questions about our products. We have also created specialized forums for collectors, friends, and those interested in keeping up with company news in which we have incorporated targeted RSS feeds for our press releases and newsletters, provided lessons learned from our travel experiences and included a complete list of our photos in a single catalog. We expect to add a forum on design considerations in the near future. Finally, we have included direct links to our Facebook fan page and our Brownbook listing (where we solicit feedback) for those who would like to keep up with our activities between releases.

 

Terence

CITY ESCAPES Nature Photography, LLC

www.cityescapesphotography.com