City Escapes Nature Photography Newsletter - Feb 2011

CITY ESCAPES

Nature Photography, LLC

 

 

Newsletter

February, 2011

 

 

 

White Balance Basics

 

You finally gave in and bought a digital camera.  Now you have discovered that you have quite a few more options on the camera, and you just might be daunted by the amount there is to learn.  Fear not; you actually don’t need to know that much more about digital cameras than you do about film cameras to start taking wonderful photographs.  If your new camera is a point-and-shoot, you probably have even less to learn.  But if your new gear is a DSLR (digital single-lens reflex) camera, there are a few basic functions that are significantly different from film cameras.  Understanding these differences will get you off to a good start in the new digital medium.

 

Perhaps the most basic of differences is what is known in the digital world as “white balance.”  This refers to the temperature, or color, of light that the camera sees.  In film, the adjustments were made with the type of film used: remember those photos taken indoors that always seemed to turn out kind of yellowish-orange?  That was because they were taken with film rated for outdoor light.  Here’s how it works, in a nutshell: various light sources, such as incandescent bulbs, fluorescent bulbs, direct sunlight, flash units, etc. all emit light at slightly different color wavelengths (temperatures).  Our brains are very adept at translating these different wavelengths into a relatively constant color palette, meaning that we see colors in each of these lighting situations as more or less the same.  Our cameras, however, cannot make that adjustment in the same way that our brains do.  This results in various color casts in the images, depending upon the wavelength of the source light.  Fluorescent lights, for example, will cause a green cast, while flash units can cause a yellow cast. 

 

To fix this issue in a digital camera, you simply have to tell it what your light source is.  The camera will then make the appropriate adjustments so that the resulting image looks normal -- without any color casts.  Most camera manufacturers have very common-sense symbols to represent the various settings: a classic light bulb for incandescent lights, a cylindrical light bulb for fluorescent lights, a sun for full sunshine, a cloud for overcast light, a building casting a shadow for shade, and a lightning bolt for a flash unit.  There will also be the letter A, which stands for “automatic,” and is a setting in which the camera reads the scene and makes its best guess as to the temperature of the light source.  While the automatic setting certainly is not perfect, it can be helpful in many situations, including situations in which there are multiple light sources.  For many photographers, it will become the default white balance setting.

 

Some cameras will also have a K setting, which stands for Kelvin, and is useful if you know the temperature in Kelvin of the light source.  There may also be a PRE setting, which allows you to pre-program a particular adjustment without having to know the Kelvin temperature.  The PRE setting is particularly helpful if you have multiple light sources that do not fit easily into one category since you can use a gadget such as an Expodisc to help you measure the overall light temperature.  Most casual photographers will never use either of these settings, so feel free to ignore them.

 

The adventurous photographer might want to intentionally shoot with a white balance that does not give the proper color balance, experimenting with the effects it can have on an image.  Want to make an image look warmer?  Use the cloudy or shade setting.  Want to give it a cooler feeling?  Try the incandescent bulb setting.  Want to never think about white balance again?  Set it on automatic and forget about it. 

 

That’s it; that’s all there is to white balance. The most important thing to remember about white balance, though, is that it is merely a new tool in your digital toolbox.  There is no “right” way to use it.  However, the more you understand it, the more you will be able to use it to help you make the images you want to make. 

 

Now get out there and have fun playing with the different color options!

   

 

 

February’s Fun Facts

‘Tis the season of love, at least according to Hallmark.  To mark this month’s fun holiday, we take a look at -- what else? – lovebirds.

 

·         Lovebirds are actually small parrots, averaging 1.5 to 2.5 oz.  There are nine different species of them, eight of which are native to Africa, one to Madagascar.

·         The average life expectancy of a lovebird is ten to fifteen years.

·         When given proper attention, lovebirds can make very strong bonds with humans, and will often preen their human companions.  

·         Despite their small size, they are also aggressive and territorial birds.  Fierce attacks on other birds, dogs, and even cats are not uncommon.

·         Wild flocks of lovebirds can range in size from just a few individuals to over 800 birds.

·         Avocados and mistletoe berries are toxic to lovebirds, while citrus seeds will intoxicate them.

 

 

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Hotel Review: Elizabeth Lake Lodge, Cranbrook, BC

Rating: 4 stars out of 5

Date of visit:  Jan, 2011

 

This lodge has been a favorite on trip advisor for several years, and deservedly so. It embodies the best of a local inn. We stayed here twice, heading to and from our final destination, and were very impressed with this motel-style lodge. We were fortunate that others had sung its praises previously or we would have driven right by it.

 

One of the first things you notice, beyond the striking mural on the side of the building, is the location.  The lodge is on the south side of Cranbrook, right next to a 250 acre bird sanctuary. While there were not a lot of birds during our visit (in the middle of winter), just having the view over the expanse of trees and Elizabeth Lake, instead of looking into another business, was a nice change. I imagine in the summer, it would be even better.  There is also a miniature golf course on the premises, though it, too, was closed for the season.

 

The rooms were well-equipped with a miniature kitchen, a full size breakfast table, and duvets over the beds. The kitchenette was a nice surprise, and allowed us to easily make breakfast and reheat leftover dinner.  My favorite feature, however, was the heated floors in the bathroom. Tile floors are common in bathrooms, and are always cold. The heated floors warm the tile so that it is not only not cold, but actually warm on your feet. This makes stepping out of the shower much nicer. The heated floors were also a great compliment to the dedicated bathroom heater that allowed the temperature in the bathroom to be set independent of the main sleeping area.

 

Other amenities included a 42” flat-screen TV, tea and tea kettle (it is Canada, after all), deck chairs outside, and custom soaps made especially for the Elizabeth Lake Lodge by a local soap company. 

 

It is also worth mentioning that we were greeted enthusiastically on check in. On both occasions, we were met by George (one of the owners) who not only showed us a room before we committed to staying, but checked the weather and road conditions for the next leg of our drive,  as well as provided multiple restaurant recommendations. George is clearly interested in providing the best accommodations in the area, and even asked us what amenities we have seen elsewhere that we have enjoyed. Clearly, he is not taking his high trip advisor rating for granted and is continuing to look for ways to enhance his guests’ experience.

 

If possible, I would give this lodge a 4.5. However, there are two, minor reasons I don’t believe this hotel rates a 5. The first is the request that the guests wash their own dishes (and as a small sign notes, they may be charged if they don’t). While I find this to be an unusual request, having never seen this before in anything but a condo, and I am not thrilled with it, I would be willing to go along with it given the other advantages of the lodge. However, I am very concerned about the sanitary aspects of this practice. Specifically, I have very little confidence that guests will do a thorough job cleaning the dishes, and that could lead to germs being passed along to the next visitor.  Something as simple as a centralized dish washer that could sanitize the dishes (and not just make them look clean) would resolve this concern. The second issue is that the rooms do not appear to be particularly sound-resistant. It was fairly easy for us to hear other guests both above and near our rooms – more so than in many other hotels. Unfortunately, this problem is not something that is easy to resolve in the existing building. On the plus side, a second building is under construction, and is due to open in May. Hopefully, the insulation in this building will provide additional soundproofing.

 

Terence

City Escapes Nature Photography

 

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Arctic Trip Tips 2 - Tips for Polar Regions

Finally, our arctic cruise provided several insights that are primarily applicable for travel to the poles, or other cool climates where you may end up in zodiacs for an extended period of time.

1.       Bring a second sweater or jacket. After a day out on zodiacs, or hiking in weather, it is really nice to have a clean, dry sweater or fleece jacket to be able to slip into to stay warm. I had originally planned to just take one jacket with me on this trip, and am extremely glad that I brought a second that I could use around the ship (in particular sightseeing from the deck) while the first jacket dried off.  If I had only had the one jacket, I would have had to wear it before it dried and I would have been cold and miserable instead of warm and excited.

2.       In Antarctica, take the longer trips. Make sure that your trip includes both the Falkland Islands and South Georgia as well as the Antarctic Peninsula. While the addition of these two locations will increase your time commitment as well as the cost, these are where most of the animals hang out. According to everyone we have talked to, both staff and more importantly fellow travelers, these locations are well worth it. The animals are plentiful, easily found, and not shy – providing ample opportunities for photography and general viewing.  Since these animals are one of the primary reasons people visit the Antarctic, do not short change yourself by passing by these locations. In the grand scheme of things, the additional cost is well worth it (and much cheaper than going back a second time just to see what you missed).

3.       Bring a dry bag. When travelling in a zodiac, you have to expect to get drenched. You may not, but you have to plan for it. And since this is salt water, which is corrosive, you need to really protect your equipment – losing a camera early on in the trip can be tragic. While you can use Ziploc bags, and general waterproof bags much of the time, I suggest bringing a dry bag along for those days when the sea is a little rougher. Using a large dry bag in addition to the other preventative measures can save you huge headaches (and repair bills).  You can also stuff your extra hiking socks and a dry sweater into the bag, bonuses that your potentially cold and wet body will appreciate.

4.       Use hand-warmers and foot-warmers.  Obviously, the polar regions are cold, or at least cool, even during the summer season when the adventure travel cruises take place. While we dressed in layers, and were generally warm, we did find that when we went on zodiac cruises, our extremities got a little cold. On these cruises, which lasted up to 3 hours, there were minimal opportunities to move around – we were mainly just watching the scenery and wildlife from a fixed position. In this case, the warmers did their job exceptionally well. Now, someone just needs to develop a warming seat. J We were also glad to have the warmers on those few days when we had poor weather, our hikes were slower and shorter, and/or we didn’t generate enough internal heat to stay completely warm.  During those hikes, the warmers were a nice addition.

5.       Use dishwashing gloves as a waterproof layer. As previously mentioned, you need to expect to get wet on a zodiac. Even in relatively calm weather, your hands / gloves will get splashed as you hang on to the zodiac. Instead of having wet gloves after every excursion, place your glove or liner inside an oversized dishwashing glove. This will give you an outside layer that is waterproof, over an inside layer that keeps your hands warm.  This may require stretching the dishwashing glove a little (I should be using a XXXL, but could only find an XL on short notice) but it is well worth it. While not stylish, we were the envy of many of the other travelers. Of course, if you do these excursions regularly, you may want to invest in gloves that are both truly waterproof and warm; however a good pair of these gloves can be quite expensive. For the rest of us, using dishwashing gloves is an excellent and much cheaper alternative.

 

Terence

City Escapes Nature Photography

 

City Escapes Nature Photography Newsletter - Jan 2011

CITY ESCAPES

Nature Photography, LLC

 

 

Newsletter

January, 2011

 

 

 

Protecting Your Gear in the Cold Weather

 

Winter weather is upon us once again, and with it, a wide range of intriguing things to photograph.  Whether you are a seasoned professional making images of a stunning landscape, or a proud parent capturing your son’s amazing tackle during his high school football game, the season just might find you outside in the chill, camera in hand.  The cold and possibly wet weather brings special challenges for photographers.  Here are some tips to keep you – and your gear – in top condition.

 

·         A major challenge for outdoor photography in cold weather is keeping your hands warm.  Even if you have a simple point-and-shoot camera, unless you are quite practiced, pushing the shutter button and controlling other functions while wearing gloves can be difficult.  Not wearing gloves, however, can lead to numb fingers, which are equally difficult to work with.  My solution: a cross between fingerless gloves and mittens.  These ingenious little gloves have a flap that folds back over the back of the hand, revealing gloved fingers that cover half of each finger, leaving the ends free to manipulate the camera.  The flap velcros in place to keep it out of the way.  When I want extra warmth, I simply fold the flap over my fingers to create a mitten.  These gloves are a great solution for mild to moderately cold conditions, and are relatively inexpensive: I got my pair at an outdoor recreation store for about $12.  Otherwise, any glove liner or other relatively thin glove will add warmth without compromising too much maneuverability.  Just be certain to practice using your camera while wearing the gloves prior to the outdoor event.

 

·         Keep yourself warm.  This may sound silly and obvious, but if you are shivering, holding your camera still to get a clear shot is that much more difficult.

 

·         You are all ready for the big shot, when bleeoop!  Your camera dies.  What happened?!?  It could be the battery.  Cold weather drains batteries faster than warm weather.  Carrying an extra battery under your jacket, where it will stay nice and warm, is always a good idea during an outdoor shoot.  If you will only be using your camera every now and then, such as when your daughter comes up to bat in her softball game, keep your camera under your jacket to prolong its battery life.  The same goes for extra memory cards.

 

·         Unless your camera is water-proof, protecting it from wet weather is a must.  Even if it is water-resistant (not water-proof), precautions should be taken.  As long as you are not actually shooting underwater, there are some simple ways to achieve this.  You could go the expensive route and buy a waterproof casing, which is available in both hard and soft versions.  Or you could go the much cheaper route and use items that you likely already have around the house.  The simplest is an umbrella.  As long as the rain or snow (sleet, hail, whatever) is coming more or less straight down, an umbrella should do a fine job of protecting your gear.  If the wind has decided to play as well, though, you will have water coming in at an angle to deal with.  Not to worry: there are simple solutions for this.  Zip-lock bags make great raingear for your camera.  Find one that your camera will comfortably fit in, keeping in mind that too big is better than too small.  Cut out a hole in the bag just big enough for the end of your lens.  If you have an SLR-type camera, rubber band the bag in place around the lens, leaving only the very end of the lens exposed, seal the bag, and voila, your camera is protected from the rain.  If you have a point-and-shoot, keeping the bag in precisely the right place will be a bit more challenging, but it can be done by taping or rubber banding the bag around the body of the camera.  (If your point-and-shoot camera has a lens that extends out from the body, treat it as an SLR-type camera and protect the length of the lens.)  Make any adjustments to your camera settings before sealing it away, as these will be difficult (though not impossible) to make after the camera is in the bag.  Be sure the seal is actually solid, as well.  As an extra precaution, position the seal on the bottom of your camera.  That way, even if the seal is not quite tight, the water will drip off the bag, rather than into it.

 

·         If the weather is cold enough to cause condensation when you go inside, protect your camera from this, as well.  While still in the cold weather, seal your dry camera in a Zip-lock bag.  Once you bring it inside, allow the camera to warm up to room temperature prior to removing it from the bag.  This will keep moisture in the air from condensing on your camera – including on the inside, which is the last place in your camera you want to find moisture.

 

 

Keeping Still While Shooting – A Reader’s Question Answered

 

Recently a reader revealed to us that she has a natural shake in her hands, and she requested tips on how to keep a camera still enough to prevent blur.  This is a constant challenge for photographers, as most people have a natural shake.  Look back at your family photos; how many of them are blurry, and not because your subject moved?  If you are like most of us, you have quite a few.  Fear not, for there are some simple techniques that can help you improve your ability to hold the camera still and prevent blur.

 

·         The most common solution among photographers is to use a tripod.  These do not have to be expensive, or even large; there are some table-top versions that work great with smaller cameras.  There are even some versions with bendable legs that allow you to secure your camera in places without flat surfaces, such as on the backs of chairs or on round rocks.  Before you shell out any money for a tripod, however, be sure that your camera can be attached to one.  The camera should have a spot on the bottom where a tripod can be screwed in.  (Though these are the best solutions, keep in mind that even with a tripod, you are not guaranteed a clear shot, especially if you are in a windy area.  To get the clearest shot, protect your camera from the wind, especially for shots using slow shutter speeds.)

 

·         Other flat surfaces can be used, as well: tabletops, counters, etc. can provide great stability for cameras.  It can be difficult to frame the shot as you want it, however, as anyone who has ever used this technique knows.

 

No tripod or flat surface?  No problem.  There are other techniques that can greatly improve the clarity of your hand-held photos.

 

·          If your camera has adjustable controls, ensure that your shutter speed is at least 1/60 of a second.  Any slower than this will likely result in camera shake when hand-held.  The faster the shutter speed, the less likely there will be blur.

·         Most people flare their elbows out to the side when taking a picture.  This increases the instability, and therefore the shake, of your hands.  Instead, hold your elbows in to the sides of your body.  This may feel awkward at first, but with practice will become more natural. 

 

·         If you can, lean against something solid, such as a tree or a wall.  Ensure that you are comfortable; if you are not, your body will be making many minute corrections to keep you balanced, resulting in movement and, you guessed it, blur. 

 

·         Try sitting on the ground with your feet flat and your knees up.  Rest your elbows on your knees as you take the picture, keeping your entire body in tight.

 

·         Before you take the picture, take a deep breath.  Exhale, then push the shutter release.  The act of breathing, believe it or not, can cause enough movement to blur a photo.  Don’t hold your breath; relax and shoot in between breaths.  This is another technique that may take some practice to master, but it is worth the effort – it truly works to minimize “diaphragm blur.”

 

With practice, these techniques will help reduce blur caused by the photographer’s natural shake.  Now if we could only get our subjects to stay perfectly still for us…

 

 

January’s Fun Fact

 

Stuck in a blizzard and not happy about it?  Consider this: the largest snowflake on record was 15 inches across and 8 inches thick!  It fell in Montana in January, 1887.

 

 

 

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CITY ESCAPES Nature Photography, LLC

www.cityescapesphotography.com

509-396-5154

 

Arctic Trip Tips 1 - General tips

Many of the lessons we learnt (or re-learnt) on this trip are applicable to a wide variety of trips, so I have included all of those in this entry.  A smaller set of tips, applicable primarily for polar excursions, will be included in the next post.  

1.       Motion sickness patch can cause motion sickness: The prescription patch for motion sickness is becoming extremely popular with travelers, since it provides excellent relief of symptoms without having to remember to take pills on a regular schedule. There are a couple of important things to be aware of, however, when using this medication. The first is that you may still experience some symptoms of sea sickness if the seas are particularly rough. This is not unexpected. The second is that if you wear the patch for more than three days, then suddenly remove the patch at the end of the voyage, you may end up feeling the symptoms of motion sickness (nausea, dizziness, etc.) a day or two after the patch has been removed while your body adjusts to the sudden removal of the drugs. This is a noted side effect of the medicine, but can still catch you by surprise – for example, if you are flying out a day or two after your voyage. Plan ahead, and adjust your medications appropriately.

2.       Give yourself plenty of time before and after the trip to get where you need to go. Travel in general, and adventure travel in particular, does not run on a tight schedule.  Flights, including charter flights, are often  delayed; disembarking a ship can take more time than expected; bad weather can interrupt plans; and luggage can be temporarily misplaced. If you provide a little extra time at the start and end of your trip, these disruptions are less likely to impact you and you will be able to remain relaxed instead of stressing out. Even simply over-nighting at your departure and arrival locations may give you the time that you need. For example, on this trip, the charter company responsible for returning us to Toronto changed, causing a change in arrival time. Because we were spending the night in Toronto before continuing on to our final destinations, we didn’t have to worry about exactly what time of day we got into Toronto. Some of those who had booked connecting flights had to reschedule them, because we arrived several hours later than initially expected, and they still had to clear customs and check in to their connections before moving on. In cases like these, the connecting airlines take no responsibility for the cost of rebooking the flights, since the arriving flight was a charter, not part of the connecting airlines’ service. Any additional expenses were borne by the travelers, and almost certainly exceeded the $100 cost of a hotel room for the night.

3.       Work with local experts and experienced guides whenever possible. Do research before booking your trip to make sure that the people you are travelling with are not just familiar with travelling in general, but with the area that you are heading to in particular. In adventure travel, the agenda must adapt in response to a variety of conditions, including weather. This means that flexibility is important. The more your guides know about the area, the more options you have and the better you will be able to respond to the unexpected. On this trip, each day’s agenda was posted the night before based on the guides’ best estimate of what we would encounter, and we still had numerous changes during the day. However, because our expedition lead had been to the area over 40 times, and the captain had made hundreds of cruises in the area, they were able to identify alternatives that made us feel like we weren’t missing anything.  Less experienced guides would not have been able to respond as effectively, and we would have ended up with cancelled activities.

4.       Always bring spare socks when hiking. Of course, on longer hikes, you likely already know that you should change socks every chance you get just to keep your feet dry and prevent blistering. However, even when a hike is supposed to be easy you should still bring a spare pair along. There is always the chance for something to happen – for example, stepping in a puddle or needing to rock-hop across a stream. If you have a spare pair of socks, you can easily change out of a suddenly wet pair into a dry one, preventing blisters and keeping your feet happy. If you don’t, then you have to suffer with wet feet for the remainder of the hike.

5.       Mosquito netting is your friend. Surprisingly, to me at least, mosquitoes not only live but thrive above the Arctic Circle. While bug dope (aka repellent) will work, the bugs still swarm your face, sit on your hat or glasses, and generally try to find an unprotected area to attack you. Having netting available keeps them away from your face and decreases the distractions while you are hiking. Given the small cost and weight, it is definitely worth packing netting even if you don’t think you will use it.  Of course, you should still bring bug spray for those areas not covered by your netting. And, very importantly, keep both the netting and the spray with you whenever you are on an excursion. It does you no good at all if it is sitting in your room while you are providing a feast for the local wildlife.

6.       Bring external backup devices. I have previously written about our use of a Hyperdrive external hard drive to back up our flash memory cards. This is a good, single-purpose device which can copy files from a variety of different types of cards. However, it can freeze up when things are done out of order and it does not support filtering of images because the screen size is too small and the images cannot be categorized. On this trip, I noticed several people using an iPad instead of a full-blown laptop for accessing their photos. This has the advantage that the tablet is much smaller and easier to transport than a laptop, while still providing the essential capabilities that one would want on a trip (e.g. reading eBooks and sending email). It is also well designed for performing an initial filtering of the photos, since it has a large screen, can easily move between hundreds of photos, and allows directories to be created and populated based on content. Unfortunately, the current version of the iPad does not natively support an external USB drive (this has been hacked around by some), so this limits the usefulness of the device as a backup for long trips where you will have many more pictures to store / access than can fit on its relatively small internal drive . With tablet computers becoming more popular, however, I would expect this limitation to be overcome in the near future.

7.       Walkie-talkies keep people in touch.  It can be really handy to be able to talk to others in your group from a distance.  This allows you to find each other when you have become separated and can reduce trips back to the cabin for forgotten items. For example, if a polar bear is sighted, one person may rush out on deck to see where it is, while someone else rushes to the cabin to get a camera – but then finding each other can become challenging.  In many places, such as ski areas, cell phones have been allowing people to connect remotely for years (e.g. to coordinate lunch between black diamond and green bunny-hill skiers). Unfortunately, cell phones don’t work in many places – and even if they do work, they can be expensive for these types of quick calls. Instead of cell phones, for international and adventure travel, I suggest taking a hint from your guides and using a set of walkie-talkies. They work anywhere, use rechargeable batteries, and can provide an effective link to others in your group over moderate distances.  Even a fairly basic set will provide a level of connectivity that will save you several laps around the deck looking for people.

8.       Bring ski goggles. If you wear corrective lenses, you know that one of the downsides of wearing glasses instead of contacts is that rain, snow, fog and other weather events can severely affect your vision. On this trip, the rain was so bad one day that I simply took my glasses off since I couldn’t see anything through them. It was during this downpour that I noticed our more experienced guides were wearing ski goggles, which protected their eyes and gave them a reasonable view of their surroundings. Even over glasses, these provide an enhanced weather block and are much easier to keep clean while hiking.

9.       Always use your lens shade. While the nominal purpose of a camera’s lens shade is to keep the sun off of the lens’ front element and let you take a better picture sans lens flare, while on an outdoor shoot you should always keep your shade on. In addition to protecting from the sun, it also helps to block rain, sleet, and snow from hitting your lens. This not only increases the chances of getting good pictures but reduces the time that you need to spend cleaning your gear. It is not a bad idea to keep the shade on during indoor shoots, too.  The shade can help protect the lens against damage from ungraceful moments.  (How many of you have ever accidentally hit your camera against a chair back while walking past?)

 

Terence

City Escapes Nature Photography

Home Photo Framing Basics, Part 4: Putting It All Together

 

Finally, you are ready to assemble all the parts of your photo and frame.  Here are a few hints to help it all go smoothly.

 

Though it may seem obvious, it is nonetheless critical to begin with cleaning all of your components.  Ensuring that both sides of your glass are clean, for example, will save you the headache of later discovering that the annoying fingerprint in the middle of the image is on the inside of the frame, and requires disassembling everything to remove.  Wiping down your mats and backboards with a dry, lint-free cloth will help to keep distracting flecks off the final image, and don’t forget to wipe off the frame’s rabbet – you might be surprised at how much dust and other particles are lurking about there, just waiting to announce themselves after everything is all sealed up.  After cleaning the glass (and anything else that you might use a cleaning agent on), be sure to allow sufficient time for all of the moisture to evaporate from the components.  The last thing that you want to do is to trap moisture or fumes inside the frame.

 

The next step is to attach the print to its backing board.  There are several ways to accomplish this, depending upon the size of your image, its value, and your personal preferences.  You can use anything from traditional photo corners to acid-free, double-sided tape.  Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.  One advantage of photo corners, for example, is that the print can be removed from the backing board with no damage whatsoever; a disadvantage is that the corner might be slightly visible, depending upon your framing choices.  If your print is of particular value, it is a good idea to discuss your options with a professional framer before using anything that will stick to the print in any way, such as tapes or other adhesives.  It is important that you choose materials that will not cause damage to the print over the long term.  (General household glues are not recommended under any circumstances.)

 

If you are using multiple mats, it is a good idea to use double-sided tape to keep them together.  This allows them to shift, expand, and contract without losing their spacing in relation to one another.  In other words, if you get them properly lined up and taped together, one mat won’t slide over to one side, leaving the bottom mat more exposed on one side than on the other.  (There’s nothing quite like having no bottom mat showing on one side, while the other side is extra-wide, to drive this point home.)  Then, for similar reasons, you might want to tape the mats to the backing board, making certain, of course, that your image is properly positioned before securing everything together. 

 

Carefully place your clean glass back into the frame, ensuring that the proper side is facing the artwork if using a specialty glass (see Part 3 of this series: Glass).  I find it useful to wear cotton gloves when handling the clean glass, as they prevent me from leaving fingerprints.  Lay the mat / print / backing board package on top of the glass.  If you are not using a mat, be sure to use a spacer to keep your print away from the glass (see Part 1: The Importance of Breathing Space).  At this point, I find it useful to hold the print package in the frame with my hands and carefully flip the entire piece over to check for any distracting dust flecks that may have snuck onto the image or the mats.  There are almost always some there, and it is much better to find and remove them now than after the next step.  Repeat this process until the piece is speck-free, or at least as speck-free as you care to get it.  Be patient.  This can often be the most frustrating phase of framing.

 

Securing the print package in the frame can take one of several forms.  Many ready-made frames come with glazier points already in the frame.  If this is the case, simply bend the points down over the backing board.  If your chosen frame does not come with points pre-installed, it is a relatively simple matter to do install them yourself.  Glazier points are available in most hardware stores, and they can be installed with either a flathead screwdriver or an inexpensive tool made specifically for this purpose.  (Electric glazier point guns are also available, but these are expensive, and might not be worth the money to the home framer with only the occasional framing job to do.)  A word of warning, however: while many woods are very easy to work with, some woods are quite hard (and all knots are hard).  Glazier points do not go into these woods without difficulty.  It is not uncommon to slip with the screwdriver or the glazing tool, which can lead to bruised or scraped knuckles.  Perhaps more dangerously, if you use your other hand to push on the frame in order to give you leverage, a slipped tool could result in an impaled hand.  Work carefully.  Wearing good gloves is never a bad idea during this stage.

 

Alternatively, you can use offsets, which are “s” shaped pieces of metal, to hold the print package in place.  Offsets are available in several depths, and are also widely available in hardware stores.  To use an offset, you first need to drill a pilot hole in the frame to keep the frame from splitting.  I suggest doing this part prior to cleaning the frame, as it will introduce wood shavings into the frame.  Then secure the offsets over the print package with screws.  Note: be sure that the screws you use are not too long for the depth of your frame.  Pay particular attention to the depth of the frame at the point where the screws will be attached; many mouldings have greatly varying depths throughout the moulding.

 

If you would like to add a dust covering, now is the time.  Simply cut a piece of craft paper to the proper size, and attach it to the back of your frame with double-sided tape.

 

Hanging hardware that uses a wire is usually attached about a third of the way down the frame from the top.  Sawtooth hangers are attached at the top center of the frame.  While both are equally effective for smaller frames, wire hangers are a better option for larger frames, and my preference overall, as I find it easier to adjust the positioning of a frame on the wall with a wire.  Regardless of the type of hanging hardware that you choose, ensure that it is strong enough to support the framed piece.  If you choose a wire, ensure that it is wrapped securely around the “D” rings, and that they are properly screwed into the frame.  (Watching a frame fall because the wire unraveled itself does not make for a pleasant day.)  It is not difficult to secure the wire to the “D” rings, but it is critical.  If you have questions about how to do so, ask your local framer for a demonstration.

 

Adding bumpers to the bottom corners of your framed piece is the finishing touch.  These bumpers serve two purposes: first, they protect your wall by keeping the frame away from it, and second, they allow air to circulate behind the frame, which helps to control moisture.

 

Voila! You are finished, and are now the proud owner of a beautifully framed piece of art – that you framed yourself.  With practice, all of these steps will become second nature, and you will be able to get more and more creative with your framing.  Good luck, and have fun! 

 

Jodi Gaylord

City Escapes Nature Photography

www.cityescapesphotography.com

 

City Escapes Photography Newsletter - Dec 2010

CITY ESCAPES

Nature Photography, LLC

 

 

Newsletter

December, 2010

 

 

 

New for the holidays: E-cards!

 

We have added a new feature to our website: free e-cards!  This inaugural batch of eleven cards is holiday-themed, with more e-cards for a broader array of occasions in the works.  You choose the image, add your own title and message, and send it off.  It couldn’t be easier!  The recipient will receive the card directly in their mailbox; there is no need for them to go to an outside site and log in to receive their card.  To send your free City Escapes Nature Photography e-card, go to www.CityEscapesPhotography.com, and click on “Free E-Cards” in the side panel.

 

 

Our Fall Release – The North

 

As the temperatures plummet over much of the country, you will feel right at home taking in our latest release, “The North.”  From polar bears and icebergs to wildflowers, you can travel from the Arctic tundra to the Canadian Rockies and back again in a matter of moments.  So grab a cup of hot cocoa and wrap up in your favorite blanket, and come explore the many stunning shades of blue and white to be found in the realm of snow and ice.  

 

 

Home Photo Framing Basics, Part 4:  Putting It All Together

 

Finally, you are ready to assemble all the parts of your photo and frame.  Here are a few hints to help it all go smoothly.

 

Though it may seem obvious, it is nonetheless critical to begin with cleaning all of your components.  Ensuring that both sides of your glass are clean, for example, will save you the headache of later discovering that the annoying fingerprint in the middle of the image is on the inside of the frame, and requires disassembling everything to remove.  Wiping down your mats and backboards with a dry, lint-free cloth will help to keep distracting flecks off the final image, and don’t forget to wipe off the frame’s rabbet – you might be surprised at how much dust and other particles are lurking about there, just waiting to announce themselves after everything is all sealed up.  After cleaning the glass (and anything else that you might use a cleaning agent on), be sure to allow sufficient time for all of the moisture to evaporate from the components.  The last thing that you want to do is to trap moisture or fumes inside the frame.

 

The next step is to attach the print to its backing board.  There are several ways to accomplish this, depending upon the size of your image, its value, and your personal preferences.  You can use anything from traditional photo corners to acid-free, double-sided tape.  Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.  One advantage of photo corners, for example, is that the print can be removed from the backing board with no damage whatsoever; a disadvantage is that the corner might be slightly visible, depending upon your framing choices.  If your print is of particular value, it is a good idea to discuss your options with a professional framer before using anything that will stick to the print in any way, such as tapes or other adhesives.  It is important that you choose materials that will not cause damage to the print over the long term.  (General household glues are not recommended under any circumstances.)

 

If you are using multiple mats, it is a good idea to use double-sided tape to keep them together.  This allows them to shift, expand, and contract without losing their spacing in relation to one another.  In other words, if you get them properly lined up and taped together, one mat won’t slide over to one side, leaving the bottom mat more exposed on one side than on the other.  (There’s nothing quite like having no bottom mat showing on one side, while the other side is extra-wide, to drive this point home.)  Then, for similar reasons, you might want to tape the mats to the backing board, making certain, of course, that your image is properly positioned before securing everything together. 

 

Carefully place your clean glass back into the frame, ensuring that the proper side is facing the artwork if using a specialty glass (see Part 3 of this series: Glass).  I find it useful to wear cotton gloves when handling the clean glass, as they prevent me from leaving fingerprints.  Lay the mat / print / backing board package on top of the glass.  If you are not using a mat, be sure to use a spacer to keep your print away from the glass (see Part 1: The Importance of Breathing Space).  At this point, I find it useful to hold the print package in the frame with my hands and carefully flip the entire piece over to check for any distracting dust flecks that may have snuck onto the image or the mats.  There are almost always some there, and it is much better to find and remove them now than after the next step.  Repeat this process until the piece is speck-free, or at least as speck-free as you care to get it.  Be patient.  This can often be the most frustrating phase of framing.

 

Securing the print package in the frame can take one of several forms.  Many ready-made frames come with glazier points already in the frame.  If this is the case, simply bend the points down over the backing board.  If your chosen frame does not come with points pre-installed, it is a relatively simple matter to do install them yourself.  Glazier points are available in most hardware stores, and they can be installed with either a flathead screwdriver or an inexpensive tool made specifically for this purpose.  (Electric glazier point guns are also available, but these are expensive, and might not be worth the money to the home framer with only the occasional framing job to do.)  A word of warning, however: while many woods are very easy to work with, some woods are quite hard (and all knots are hard).  Glazier points do not go into these woods without difficulty.  It is not uncommon to slip with the screwdriver or the glazing tool, which can lead to bruised or scraped knuckles.  Perhaps more dangerously, if you use your other hand to push on the frame in order to give you leverage, a slipped tool could result in an impaled hand.  Work carefully.  Wearing good gloves is never a bad idea during this stage.

 

Alternatively, you can use offsets, which are “s” shaped pieces of metal, to hold the print package in place.  Offsets are available in several depths, and are also widely available in hardware stores.  To use an offset, you first need to drill a pilot hole in the frame to keep the frame from splitting.  I suggest doing this part prior to cleaning the frame, as it will introduce wood shavings into the frame.  Then secure the offsets over the print package with screws.  Note: be sure that the screws you use are not too long for the depth of your frame.  Pay particular attention to the depth of the frame at the point where the screws will be attached; many mouldings have greatly varying depths throughout the moulding.

 

If you would like to add a dust covering, now is the time.  Simply cut a piece of craft paper to the proper size, and attach it to the back of your frame with double-sided tape.

 

Hanging hardware that uses a wire is usually attached about a third of the way down the frame from the top.  Sawtooth hangers are attached at the top center of the frame.  While both are equally effective for smaller frames, wire hangers are a better option for larger frames, and my preference overall, as I find it easier to adjust the positioning of a frame on the wall with a wire.  Regardless of the type of hanging hardware that you choose, ensure that it is strong enough to support the framed piece.  If you choose a wire, ensure that it is wrapped securely around the “D” rings, and that they are properly screwed into the frame.  (Watching a frame fall because the wire unraveled itself does not make for a pleasant day.)  It is not difficult to secure the wire to the “D” rings, but it is critical.  If you have questions about how to do so, ask your local framer for a demonstration.

 

Adding bumpers to the bottom corners of your framed piece is the finishing touch.  These bumpers serve two purposes: first, they protect your wall by keeping the frame away from it, and second, they allow air to circulate behind the frame, which helps to control moisture.

 

Voila! You are finished, and are now the proud owner of a beautifully framed piece of art – that you framed yourself.  With practice, all of these steps will become second nature, and you will be able to get more and more creative with your framing.  Good luck, and have fun! 

 

 

December’s Fun Facts

 

With Santa busy with his final preparations at the North Pole, could we possibly discuss any animal except the reindeer this month?

 

·         All of Santa’s reindeer are actually females.  Only female reindeer keep their antlers over winter.  While bucks usually shed their antlers by early December, does keep theirs until after they give birth in the spring.

·         Reindeer are also the only species of deer in which both genders have antlers.

·         Reindeer are domesticated caribou, and are the only deer to be widely domesticated.

·         They were first brought to Alaska from Siberia in the late 19^th century to combat starvation among the Native Alaskans.

·         Reindeer were, and still are, used as pack animals.  In Alaska, the first reindeer postal route was established in 1899!

 

 

If you have any questions, or suggestions for future newsletters, please email us at: relationships@cityescapesphotography.com

 

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CITY ESCAPES Nature Photography, LLC

www.cityescapesphotography.com

509-396-5154